Described by Edward Abbey as "the best desert wilderness left in the USA, Cabeza Prieta National Wildlife Refuge is 1049 square miles where human life would have a great deal of trouble existing. There are but two "roads". To call them roads is a bit misleading. They are more like wagon trails with long stretches of rock that test the stability of the internal human anatomy. The southernmost road is called "El Camino del Diablo" or "the Devil's Highway." Needless to say, a four wheel drive vehicle, elbow and knee pads are required. In order to get a permit to go on the refuge you must watch a 25 minute "hazard warning" video and sign a two-page "hold harmless agreement." In this video you are told to carry TWO! spare tires, shovels, and two gallons of water per person. Oh, did I say a four wheel drive vehicle is a must. Even with permit in hand, you still must call as you enter the refuge and call again once you leave.
It was established as a NWR in 1939 to protect Desert Bighorn Sheep and the endangered Sonoran Pronghorn. With very little rain, there is almost no standing water anywhere except pockets in the mountains where water -- and the Bighorns collect. (Desert Bighorn Sheep can go three weeks without water -- which is probably necessary for their survival at Cabeza Prieta). There are seven mountain ranges within the refuge. Most require long hikes just to arrive at base of the mountain. There is one exception, Charlie Bell Pass. This is a 17 mile wreck of a road that the ranger suggested was my best chance to see sheep. I might also see some of the endangered Sonoran Pronghorn on my way. It was the perfect time of day -- late afternoon. Three hours later, no pronghorn, no sheep. But, I did see a small herd of beautiful Feral Burros, mountain lion tracks, and an amazing sunset. Here is the sunset:
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| Cabeza Prieta National Wildlife Refuge |
